Roof Replacement: The Complete 2025 Guide

Most residential roofs last 15-30 years depending on material, climate, and maintenance. You'll know it's time to replace when you see widespread damage across multiple areas—not just one or two problem spots. Age alone isn't always the deciding factor, but once your roof hits 70-80% of its expected lifespan, replacement often makes more sense than piling on repair after repair.

Common Reasons to Replace

• Age: Asphalt shingles past 18-20 years, visible curling or granule loss, brittle texture. Even if not actively leaking, worn materials fail unpredictably.
• Repeated leaks: If you're calling roofers every 6-12 months for patches, you're spending more on band-aids than a lasting fix. Check our repair cost guide to compare cumulative repair costs vs replacement.
• Storm damage: Hail, wind, or fallen trees that damage 30%+ of your roof often justify full replacement, especially if insurance covers it. Partial patches on heavily damaged roofs look mismatched and don't last.
• Energy upgrades: Replacing an old, dark roof with reflective metal or cool-roof shingles can cut cooling costs 10-25% in hot climates. The savings offset part of the cost over time.
• Insurance total loss: If your adjuster declares your roof a total loss due to age or extent of damage, you'll get depreciated value. Replacement is often your only covered option.

Average Roof Lifespans

If you're on the fence between repair and replacement, jump to our repair vs replacement comparison below, or check out the Roof Repair Guide for detailed repair scenarios.

A full roof replacement runs $5,500-$35,000+ for most single-family homes, with the average landing around $10,000-$15,000 for asphalt shingles. Material choice is the biggest cost driver, but size, complexity, labor rates, and hidden issues all push the final number up or down. Here's how the math breaks down.

National Cost Ranges by Home Size

Note: Roof area is typically 1.4-1.5x home square footage due to pitch, overhangs, and complexity. Steep roofs, multiple valleys, dormers, and chimneys add 15-40% to these ranges.

Cost Factors Beyond Material

• Tear-off vs overlay: Full tear-off adds $1-$2/sq ft ($1,500-$3,500 total) for labor and disposal, but it's the right way. Overlay saves money upfront but hides problems and voids warranties.
• Roof pitch: Slopes over 6:12 require safety equipment, take longer, and cost 15-25% more. Flat roofs need specialized membranes and drainage work.
• Stories: Two-story homes cost 10-20% more than single-story due to setup time, safety, and material hoisting.
• Underlayment: Budget synthetic underlayment is fine; premium ice/water shield adds $200-$800 but prevents leaks in valleys and eaves.
• Permits & disposal: Permits run $50-$500 depending on jurisdiction. Disposal fees for old materials add $300-$1,000.
• Hidden damage: Deck rot, fascia replacement, or ventilation fixes discovered during tear-off add $500-$5,000+. Budget 10-15% contingency.

For a complete breakdown of what drives these numbers, see our dedicated Cost Guide. If you're comparing repair vs replacement costs, check the Repair Cost Guide to see if patching makes more sense.

Your material choice affects cost, longevity, energy use, insurance rates, and resale value. There's no single "best" material—it depends on your budget, climate, home structure, and how long you plan to stay. Here's what actually matters for each option.

Asphalt Shingles

Still 80% of the U.S. residential market because they're affordable, familiar, and contractors know how to install them without issue.

• Cost: $3-$5/sq ft installed (3-tab); $4-$7/sq ft (architectural)
• Lifespan: 15-20 years (3-tab), 20-30 years (architectural)
• Pros: Affordable, easy to repair, widely available, many color options
• Cons: Shorter lifespan, vulnerable to hail and high winds, absorbs heat (bad for AC bills in hot climates)
• Best for: Tight budgets, homes in mild climates, owners planning to sell within 10-15 years

Metal Roofing

Standing seam and metal panels are gaining market share—especially in areas with hail, high winds, or extreme heat.

• Cost: $7-$14/sq ft installed (steel/aluminum); $10-$18/sq ft (copper, zinc)
• Lifespan: 40-70 years (most outlive homeowners)
• Pros: Incredibly durable, reflects heat (cuts AC costs 10-25%), fire resistant, lightweight, resale appeal
• Cons: High upfront cost, noisy if improperly installed, can dent from large hail (cosmetic, not functional)
• Best for: Long-term owners, hot/sunny climates, hail zones, fire-prone areas, energy efficiency goals

Tile Roofing (Clay & Concrete)

Common in the Southwest and Mediterranean-style homes. Extremely durable but heavy—not every structure can support it.

• Cost: $10-$18/sq ft installed (concrete); $15-$25/sq ft (clay)
• Lifespan: 50-100 years
• Pros: Fireproof, extremely durable, thermal mass helps regulate temperature, distinct aesthetic
• Cons: Heavy (requires structural assessment), expensive, tiles crack if walked on improperly, limited installer expertise
• Best for: Southwestern U.S., Spanish/Mediterranean architecture, long-term owners with strong roof framing

Slate & Composite

The most premium option—slate lasts 100+ years and looks stunning, but it's overkill for most situations.

• Cost: $15-$30/sq ft installed (natural slate); $8-$15/sq ft (composite slate)
• Lifespan: 75-150 years (natural), 40-60 years (composite)
• Pros: Unmatched longevity, fireproof, distinctive look, increases resale value on high-end homes
• Cons: Extremely expensive, very heavy, requires specialized installers, repairs are costly and difficult
• Best for: Historic homes, luxury properties, owners planning multi-generational ownership

Flat Roof Systems (TPO, PVC, EPDM)

Used on low-slope roofs (under 2:12 pitch). Different material science than sloped roofs—membranes, not shingles.

• Cost: $4-$8/sq ft installed
• Lifespan: 15-30 years depending on system
• Pros: TPO/PVC reflect heat well, seams are heat-welded for durability, easier roof access for HVAC units
• Cons: Require proper drainage (ponding water = leaks), seams are failure points, shorter lifespan than sloped roofs
• Best for: Modern flat-roof homes, commercial-style residential builds, desert climates

For deeper dives into pros/cons, climate fit, and energy impacts, see our Material Types Guide. If you're comparing repair materials, check our shingle vs metal repair guide.

From signing a contract to final cleanup, expect 3-6 weeks total—most of that is scheduling and permitting. Actual installation is 1-4 days for most homes. Weather, material availability, and discovered issues can extend timelines, so don't book your replacement the week before you list your house for sale.

Typical Timeline Breakdown

• Inspection & estimate (Week 1): Contractor inspects roof, measures, assesses complexity. You get a written estimate within 3-7 days.
• Contract & deposit (Week 2): Sign contract, pay deposit (usually 10% or less). Contractor orders materials and files permits.
• Permitting (Weeks 3-4): Most jurisdictions take 1-3 weeks to issue permits. Rush permits cost extra but speed this up.
• Material delivery (Week 4-5): Standard asphalt shingles arrive within days. Specialty materials (metal, tile, specific colors) can take 2-4 weeks.
• Installation (Days 1-3): Tear-off, deck inspection/repair, underlayment, shingle/metal installation, flashing, cleanup. Single-story asphalt jobs often finish in 1 day; complex roofs or premium materials take 2-4 days.
• Final inspection (Week 5-6): Building inspector verifies work meets code. Contractor handles this; you don't need to be present. Occupancy permit issued after passing.

What Delays Projects

• Weather: Rain, high winds (15+ mph), snow, or extreme heat halt work. Summer afternoon storms in the Southeast add 1-3 days routinely.
• Hidden damage: Discovering rot or structural issues stops progress while materials are sourced and repairs are quoted. Add 2-5 days.
• Material shortages: Specific shingle colors or metal panel profiles can go on backorder. This is why contractors order early.
• Failed inspection: Rare, but if ventilation or flashing doesn't meet code, work must be corrected before passing. Adds 1-3 days.

For a detailed day-by-day breakdown and prep checklist, see our Timeline & Process Guide. If you're dealing with emergency damage and need faster repairs, check our Emergency Repair Guide.

Every new roof comes with two warranties: manufacturer (material defects) and contractor (installation errors). Most homeowners assume "50-year warranty" means 50 years of free coverage—it doesn't. Understanding proration, exclusions, and how to keep warranties valid saves thousands when problems arise.

Material Warranty (Manufacturer)

• What's covered: Manufacturing defects—shingles that crack, granules that shed prematurely, metal that rusts due to coating failure. Defects are rare (under 1% of roofs).
• What's NOT covered: Installation errors, improper ventilation, storm damage, algae/moss growth, normal wear and tear. Manufacturer warranties don't cover labor—just replacement materials.
• Proration: Most warranties are prorated after 10-15 years. If shingles fail in year 20 of a 30-year warranty, manufacturer might cover 33% of material cost. You pay labor (the expensive part) plus 67% of materials.
• Length: 25-50 years for asphalt, 30-50 years for metal, lifetime for slate/tile. But remember—prorated value drops fast.

Workmanship Warranty (Contractor)

• What's covered: Installation errors—improper nailing, flashing mistakes, valley issues, inadequate underlayment. This covers leaks caused by poor work.
• What's NOT covered: Material defects, storm damage, homeowner-caused damage (walking on roof improperly), issues caused by other contractors.
• Length: Typically 1-10 years, rarely prorated. Quality contractors offer 5-10 year workmanship warranties. One-year warranties are a red flag.
• Transferability: Most workmanship warranties are non-transferable or transfer at reduced terms. Always ask before hiring if you plan to sell soon.

What Voids Warranties

• Inadequate ventilation: The #1 warranty void. Manufacturers require proper intake/exhaust ventilation—usually 1 sq ft per 150 sq ft of attic. Without it, heat buildup ages materials prematurely.
• Overlay installation: Installing new shingles over old voids nearly all manufacturer warranties. It's explicitly excluded in most warranty terms.
• Non-certified installers: Some premium warranties (GAF Golden Pledge, CertainTeed SureStart Plus) require factory-certified installers. Using non-certified contractors voids enhanced coverage.
• Pressure washing: High-pressure washing strips granules from shingles. Most manufacturers void warranties for pressure washing damage.
• Unauthorized repairs: If you hire a different contractor to repair a workmanship-warrantied roof, the original contractor's warranty is void.

For complete warranty details and how to make claims, see our Warranty Guide. Comparing materials? Check out our material comparison to see which warranties are strongest.

Most homeowners don't have $10,000-$20,000 sitting in savings for a new roof. That's fine—financing options exist. But understanding APR, total cost of ownership, and predatory lending traps is crucial. The wrong financing decision can turn a $12,000 roof into an $18,000 roof.

Cash Payment

• Pros: No interest, no monthly payments, full negotiating power (contractors prefer cash buyers), no debt on your balance sheet.
• Cons: Depletes emergency fund, no credit building, opportunity cost (that money could earn returns elsewhere).
• Best for: Homeowners with strong cash reserves who won't deplete savings below 6 months expenses.

Personal Loan (Bank or Credit Union)

• Rates: 6-12% APR for good credit, 12-20% for fair credit, 20-35% for poor credit.
• Terms: 3-7 years typical. Shorter terms = higher monthly payment, less total interest.
• Pros: Fixed rate, no collateral (unsecured), fast approval (1-3 days), better rates than contractor financing.
• Cons: Requires good credit (680+), higher monthly payments than longer-term options.
• Best for: Good-credit homeowners who want control over loan terms and rates.

Home Equity Line of Credit (HELOC)

• Rates: 7-10% APR (variable, tied to prime rate).
• Terms: 10-20 year draw period, then repayment period. Interest-only payments during draw.
• Pros: Lower rates than personal loans, flexible draw schedule, interest may be tax-deductible.
• Cons: Your home is collateral (default = foreclosure), variable rates can rise, closing costs ($200-$500), requires equity (usually 15-20%).
• Best for: Homeowners with significant equity and stable income who want low rates.

Contractor Financing

• Rates: 9-18% APR typical, sometimes 0% promotional for 12-18 months (with catch).
• Terms: 3-10 years, often with penalties for early payoff.
• Pros: Convenient (no separate loan application), easier approval for lower credit scores.
• Cons: Higher rates than banks, 0% offers often charge retroactive interest if not paid in full by deadline, less flexibility.
• Best for: Homeowners who can't qualify elsewhere or need simplicity (but shop rates first!).

The Math: Total Cost Example

Scenario: $15,000 roof replacement

• Cash: $15,000 total
• Personal loan at 8% APR (5 years): $304/month, $18,240 total (+$3,240 interest)
• HELOC at 7.5% APR (5 years): $300/month, $18,000 total (+$3,000 interest)
• Contractor financing at 14% APR (5 years): $349/month, $20,940 total (+$5,940 interest)

That 6% APR difference between personal loan and contractor financing costs you $2,700 over 5 years. Always shop rates before signing.

For detailed comparisons and avoiding financing traps, see our Financing Guide. Need cost estimates first? Check our Cost Guide.

The best material installed by a mediocre contractor will fail faster than average material installed by an expert. Choosing the right roofer matters more than shingle brand. Here's what separates quality contractors from fly-by-night operators and storm chasers.

What to Verify Before Hiring

• License & insurance: State/local contractor license (check with licensing board), general liability insurance ($1M+ coverage), workers comp insurance. Ask for certificates and verify with insurance company—forged certificates are common.
• Local address & history: Established local business with verifiable address (not PO box), 3-5+ years in business under same name. Storm chasers use temporary addresses and vanish after payment.
• References & reviews: 3-5 recent references (call them), Google/Yelp reviews (look for patterns, not single complaints), BBB rating. Be skeptical of contractors with no online presence or all 5-star reviews.
• Manufacturer certifications: GAF Master Elite, CertainTeed SELECT ShingleMaster, Owens Corning Platinum—these require training, insurance, and track record. Not required, but a positive signal.
• Written contract & lien waivers: Detailed scope of work, material specs, start/end dates, payment schedule. Lien waivers protect you from subcontractor claims if the GC doesn't pay them.

Comparing Bids: Apples to Apples

Get 3 bids from licensed contractors. But don't just pick the lowest price—make sure specs match. Check that all bids include:

• Same material brand and line (architectural shingles vary wildly in quality)
• Tear-off of old roof (not overlay)
• Ice/water shield in valleys and eaves
• Drip edge, flashing, and ridge vent or comparable ventilation
• Permits, disposal, and cleanup
• Workmanship warranty length (5-10 years preferred)

A bid $2,000 lower might skip underlayment upgrades or use 3-tab instead of architectural shingles. Always compare line-item specs.

Red Flags to Avoid

• 50%+ deposit upfront: Never. Reputable contractors ask for 10% or less. Large deposits fund other jobs—if they go under, your money is gone.
• "We're in the area" door-knockers: Storm chasers follow severe weather, collect deposits, do shoddy work, and vanish. Use local contractors with permanent addresses.
• Pressure to sign today: "This price is only good today" is a sales tactic. Quality contractors don't pressure.
• No written contract: Verbal agreements are unenforceable. Always get detailed contracts.
• Offering kickbacks: "We'll eat your deductible" or "We'll give you $500 to use us" are insurance fraud. You're liable if caught.

RooferPair pre-vets contractors for licensing, insurance, and track record. We match you with 2-3 quality local roofers for free quotes—no sales pressure, no storm chasers.

The hardest decision: patch it or replace it? The answer depends on damage extent, roof age, cost comparison, and how long you plan to stay in the home. Here's the framework contractors use to decide.

The 50% Rule

If repair costs exceed 50% of replacement cost, and your roof is past 60% of its expected lifespan, replacement is the smarter move. Example: $4,000 repair on a 16-year-old asphalt roof (lifespan: 22 years) that would cost $8,000 to replace. You're 73% through its life and repair is 50% of replacement cost—replace it.

Cost Comparison Example

Scenario: 18-year-old asphalt roof with hail damage, multiple leaks in different areas.

• Repair option: Patch 3 areas, replace valley flashing, seal leaks = $2,800. But roof only has 2-5 years left; expect more leaks.
• Replacement option: Full tear-off, architectural shingles = $9,500. Covered by insurance minus $1,500 deductible = $8,000 paid by insurance. Out-of-pocket: $1,500. New roof lasts 25 years.

Repair saves $1,300 short-term but leaves you with an aging roof. Replacement costs $1,500 but gives you 25 years of coverage and boosts resale value. Easy choice.

Not sure which applies to you? Check our Roof Repair Guide for detailed repair scenarios and costs. For replacement budgeting, see our Cost Guide.